QLD.ToolsHow-To Guides

How to install internal timber doors and door frames

This guide details the professional installation of internal timber door frames and pre-hung or blank timber doors in residential and light commercial settings. It covers setting the frame plumb and square, hanging the door, and fitting hardware, ensuring compliance with Australian building practice

Skill level
Intermediate
Time
4-8 hours per door, depending on experience and door type (pre-hung vs. blank).
Trade
Carpentry & Joinery
Updated
29 October 2026

Tools you will need

  • Tape Measure: 8m for precise measurements.
  • Block Plane: For fine adjustments to door edges.
  • Power Drill/Driver: Cordless, 18V, with various bits
  • Circular Saw: For trimming door bottoms if required.
  • Jigsaw: For hinge and lock cut
  • Router with Jig: For precise hinge rebates
  • Claw Hammer: For nailing and prying.
  • Pry Bar: For adjustments and removing temporary fixings.
  • Utility Knife: For scoring and trimming.
  • Sanding Block & Paper: 120

🪚 Installing Internal Timber Doors and Frames

What is involved in installing internal timber doors and frames?

This guide details the professional installation of internal timber door frames and pre-hung or blank timber doors in residential and light commercial settings. It covers setting the frame plumb and square, hanging the door, and fitting hardware, ensuring compliance with Australian building practices.

What skill level is required for installing internal timber doors and frames?

Intermediate — Estimated time: 4-8 hours per door, depending on experience and door type (pre-hung vs. blank).

What tools are essential for installing internal timber doors and frames?

Spirit Level: 1200mm and 600mm for accurate plumbing and levelling. Tape Measure: 8m for precise measurements. Chisel Set: 12mm, 25mm, 38mm for hinge and strike plate rebates. Block Plane: For fine adjustments to door edges. Power Drill/Driver: Cordless, 18V, with various bits (pilot, countersink, screwdriver). Circular Saw: For trimming door bottoms if required. Jigsaw: For hinge and lock cut-outs (optional, often done with chisel). Router with Jig: For precise hinge rebates (optional, but highly recommended for efficiency). Claw Hammer: For nailing and prying. Pry Bar: For adjustments and removing temporary fixings. Utility Knife: For scoring and trimming. Sanding Block & Paper: 120-180 grit for edge finishing. Caulking Gun: For gap filling. Door Wedges/Shims: Plastic or timber for precise frame and door positioning. Door Lifter/Foot Lever: For supporting doors during hinge installation.

What materials are needed for internal timber door and frame installation?

 Door Frame Kit: Timber (e.g., finger-jointed pine, MDF, hardwood) suitable for wall thickness (e.g., 90mm stud + 10mm plasterboard = 110mm frame depth). Ensure correct jamb width for door size. Internal Door: Solid core or hollow core timber door, specified size (e.g., 2040x820x35mm). Hinges: 3 per door, typically 100x75mm loose pin or fixed pin butt hinges, satin chrome or brass finish. Door Hardware: Door handle/knob set, latch mechanism, strike plate. Fixings: 75mm or 90mm galvanised nails or screws for frame fixing to studs. 30mm or 35mm screws for hinge fixing. 50mm or 65mm screws for strike plate fixing. Timber Shims/Wedges: Various thicknesses. Adhesive/Sealant: Construction adhesive (e.g., Liquid Nails) for frame assembly, gap filler/caulk.

Safety Requirements

⚠️ Safety

 Personal Protective Equipment (PPE): Always wear safety glasses, hearing protection (when using power tools), and work gloves. Manual Handling: Doors can be heavy. Use proper lifting techniques or seek assistance to prevent back injuries. Power Tool Safety: Ensure all power tools are in good working order, guards are in place, and follow manufacturer's instructions. Disconnect power before changing blades or bits. Work Area: Keep the work area clear of obstructions and trip hazards. Dust Control: When cutting or sanding timber, consider a dust mask, especially in enclosed spaces.

Step-by-Step Guide

1️⃣ Assemble the Door Frame

💡 Pro Tip: Assemble the frame on a flat, clean surface to ensure squareness.

Cut Jambs: If not pre-cut, measure and cut the two side jambs and the head jamb to the required lengths. The head jamb length should be the door width plus 6mm (for two 3mm gaps) plus the thickness of both side jambs. Join Jambs: Apply a bead of construction adhesive to the ends of the head jamb where it meets the side jambs. Secure with 65mm screws or 75mm nails, ensuring the frame is square. Use a framing square to check the corners. Install Spreader: Temporarily install a spreader batten across the bottom of the frame to maintain the correct width and squareness during installation. This should be the same length as the head jamb.

2️⃣ Install the Door Frame into the Opening

 Position Frame: Carefully lift the assembled frame into the rough opening. Ensure the frame is centred and flush with the finished wall line (typically the plasterboard line). Plumb and Level: Use your 1200mm spirit level to plumb the hinge-side jamb first. Insert timber shims between the frame and the stud at the top, middle, and bottom, adjusting until perfectly plumb. Fix Hinge Jamb: Once plumb, fix the hinge jamb to the studs using 75mm or 90mm nails or screws, driving them through the shims. Ensure fixings are countersunk. Level Head Jamb: Check the head jamb for level. Adjust shims as necessary and fix to the header. Plumb Latch Jamb: Plumb the latch-side jamb, ensuring the frame width remains consistent from top to bottom. Use the spreader batten as a guide. Shim and fix as per the hinge jamb. Check Squareness: Double-check the frame for squareness and plumb on all sides. The diagonal measurements should be equal.

3️⃣ Prepare the Door for Hinges

 Mark Hinge Positions: Lay the door flat or stand it securely. Mark the hinge positions: Top hinge: 150mm from the top of the door. Bottom hinge: 250mm from the bottom of the door. Middle hinge: Centred between the top and bottom hinges. Mark Hinge Rebates: Place the hinge leaf (the part that attaches to the door) on the door edge, aligning with your marks. Trace around it with a utility knife or pencil. Ensure the hinge barrel protrudes past the door edge slightly (typically 3mm). Cut Rebates: Using a sharp chisel and hammer, carefully cut the hinge rebates to the depth of the hinge leaf. Aim for a snug fit where the hinge sits flush with the door edge. A router with a hinge jig is highly recommended for precision and speed. Drill Pilot Holes: Drill small pilot holes for the hinge screws to prevent timber splitting.

4️⃣ Install Hinges on the Door and Frame

Attach Hinges to Door: Screw the hinge leaves to the door using the 30mm or 35mm screws. Ensure they are firmly seated and flush. Position Door in Frame: With assistance or a door lifter, position the door in the frame, ensuring a consistent 3mm gap at the top and sides. Use shims under the door if needed. Mark Hinge Positions on Frame: Transfer the hinge positions from the door to the hinge-side jamb. Use a pencil to mark the top and bottom of each hinge. Cut Rebates on Frame: As with the door, cut the hinge rebates into the frame jamb. Ensure the hinge barrel aligns perfectly with the door's hinge barrel when closed. Attach Hinges to Frame: Screw the remaining hinge leaves to the frame jamb. Insert Hinge Pins: Once both sides are screwed, insert the hinge pins to hang the door.

5️⃣ Fit the Door Hardware

Mark Latch Position: Typically, the centre of the latch is 900mm to 1000mm from the finished floor level. Mark this on the door edge and face. Drill Latch Bore: Use a hole saw (typically 54mm) to drill the main bore for the door knob/handle spindle. Drill Latch Bolt Hole: Use a spade bit (typically 25mm) to drill the hole for the latch bolt mechanism from the door edge, ensuring it meets the main bore. Chisel Latch Faceplate Rebate: Insert the latch mechanism and trace its faceplate. Chisel out the rebate so the faceplate sits flush with the door edge. Screw it in place. Install Handles/Knobs: Follow the manufacturer's instructions to install the door handles or knobs. Mark Strike Plate Position: Close the door and mark the position of the latch bolt on the latch-side jamb. Chisel Strike Plate Rebate: Chisel out the rebate for the strike plate and the deeper recess for the latch bolt to engage. Screw the strike plate in place.

6️⃣ Final Adjustments and Finishing

 Check Gaps: Ensure consistent 3mm gaps around the top and sides of the door. If the door binds, use a block plane to shave small amounts off the edges. Check Operation: Open and close the door several times to ensure smooth operation and that the latch engages correctly. Trim Door Bottom: If the door is too long, mark the required cut line (allowing for floor coverings and a 10-15mm gap). Use a circular saw with a fine-tooth blade, scoring the cut line first to prevent tear-out. Remove Spreader: Carefully remove the temporary spreader batten from the bottom of the frame. Finishing: Prepare the frame and door for painting or staining as per project specifications. Fill any nail holes or minor imperfections with timber filler.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

1.Not Plumbing the Frame: A frame that is not perfectly plumb will cause the door to swing open or closed on its own, and the gaps will be inconsistent.
2.Incorrect Hinge Rebate Depth: If rebates are too shallow, hinges will protrude, preventing the door from closing properly. If too deep, the door will bind.
3.Forgetting Door Swell: Timber doors can swell in humid conditions. Ensure adequate gaps (3mm minimum) to prevent binding.
4.Over-tightening Screws: Especially in hollow-core doors or soft timbers, over-tightening can strip screw holes or split the timber.
5.Inconsistent Gaps: Leads to a poor aesthetic and potential binding. Use shims and a block plane for precise adjustments.

Pro Tips

💡 Router for Hinges: Invest in a good quality router and a hinge jig. It will save significant time and provide perfectly consistent, clean rebates, especially for multiple doors. EOFY instant asset write-off applies for tools over $300. 💡 Pre-Drill All Holes: Always pre-drill pilot holes for screws, especially when working with hardwoods or near timber edges, to prevent splitting. 💡 Use a Door Lifter: A foot-operated door lifter is invaluable for supporting the door while marking and screwing hinges, saving your back and ensuring precision. 💡 Test Fit Hardware: Before final installation, dry-fit all hardware (latch, handles) to ensure everything aligns and operates smoothly. 💡 Consider Pre-Hung Doors: For efficiency, especially on larger projects, consider using pre-hung door units. While more expensive, they significantly reduce installation time and ensure factory-perfect alignment.

Recommended Tools

 Festool OF 1010 R Router: Precision and dust extraction make it ideal for hinge rebates. Makita DHP485Z 18V Cordless Hammer Driver Drill: Reliable, powerful, and versatile for all drilling and driving tasks. Stanley FatMax Chisel Set: Durable and sharp, essential for fine adjustments and rebates.
Trojan Door Lifter: Simple, effective, and a back-saver for single-person door hanging.

Frequently asked questions

What is involved in install internal timber doors and door frames?
This guide details the professional installation of internal timber door frames and pre-hung or blank timber doors in residential and light commercial settings. It covers setting the frame plumb and square, hanging the door, and fitting hardware, ensuring compliance with Australian building practice
What skill level do I need for install internal timber doors and door frames?
Intermediate — Estimated time: 4-8 hours per door, depending on experience and door type (pre-hung vs. blank).
What are common mistakes when install internal timber doors and door frames?
1. Not Plumbing the Frame: A frame that is not perfectly plumb will cause the door to swing open or closed on its own, and the gaps will be inconsistent. 2. Incorrect Hinge Rebate Depth: If rebates are too shallow, hinges will protrude, preventing the door from closing properly. If too deep, the door will bind. 3. Forgetting Door Swell: Timber doors can swell in humid conditions. En
What tools do I need for install internal timber doors and door frames?
This guide includes a comprehensive tools list. Key carpentry & joinery tools are detailed in the Tools Required section.
What is involved in installing internal timber doors and door frames?
This guide details the professional installation of internal timber door frames and pre-hung or blank timber doors in residential and light commercial settings. It covers setting the frame plumb and square, hanging the door, and fitting hardware, ensuring compliance with Australian building practices and relevant standards like AS 1428.1-2009 for accessibility where applicable.
What skill level is needed for installing internal timber doors and door frames?
An intermediate skill level is required for this task. The estimated time for installation is 4-8 hours per door, depending on the tradie's experience and the door type (pre-hung vs. blank). Precision in measurements and joinery is crucial for a professional finish and proper door function.
What are common mistakes when installing internal timber doors and door frames?
Common mistakes include not plumbing the frame, leading to self-swinging doors; incorrect hinge rebate depth, causing binding or protrusion; and forgetting timber's potential to swell in humid conditions. According to industry best practices, ensuring a consistent 3mm gap around the door is vital for optimal operation and future adjustments.
What is the standard gap around an internal timber door in Australia?
The standard gap around an internal timber door in Australia is typically 3mm on the top and sides, and 10-12mm at the bottom, allowing for flooring and ventilation. This consistent gap ensures proper operation and accounts for minor timber movement due to humidity, as recommended by the Australian Building Codes Board (ABCB).
How many hinges are required for an internal timber door?
For most internal timber doors in Australia, three hinges are required. This configuration provides adequate support and prevents warping, especially for solid core doors. AS 1905.1-2005, while primarily for fire doors, reinforces the importance of sufficient hinge points for door stability and safety.

Written by Chippy, the Carpentry & Joinery specialist at QLD.Tools.