How to install artificial grass in your backyard

How do you install artificial grass in an Australian backyard?

🏗️ How to Install Artificial Grass in Your Backyard

Artificial grass performs best when installed over a free-draining, accurately graded and well-compacted base—not directly over soil or existing lawn. This guide covers excavation, drainage, base preparation, cutting, joining and infilling for a typical Australian backyard, with allowances for pets, heavy rain and drought-prone conditions.

Skill Level

Intermediate — Estimated time: 2–4 days for 30–50 m²

What tools and excavation machinery are required to lay synthetic turf?

🔧 Equipment Required

💡 For a one-off backyard, hiring a turf cutter and compactor is generally cheaper than buying. Purchase becomes worthwhile when completing several projects or ongoing property maintenance; machinery costing more than $20,000 may be financed through Local Knowledge Finance, subject to approval.

What base materials and sub-base depth do you need for synthetic turf?

Quantities below should be calculated from the finished lawn area, allowing for compaction, cuts and wastage.

Safety Requirements

⚠️ Safety

Step-by-Step Guide

Step 1: 1️⃣ Plan the Area and Check Drainage

Measure the lawn at its longest and widest points, then draw a scaled plan showing buildings, paths, garden beds, drains, trees and service locations. Plan roll layouts so the pile runs in the same direction across every piece, preferably facing the main viewing position.

Set the finished level below adjoining surfaces:

Provide a consistent fall of approximately 1–2%, equal to 10–20 mm per metre, away from buildings. For clay, flat or regularly waterlogged sites, include subsoil drainage rather than relying only on surface fall.

💡 Lay out the turf according to available roll widths, commonly 3.7 m or 4 m, to reduce seams and waste.

Step 2: 2️⃣ Remove Existing Turf and Excavate

Cut existing lawn into manageable strips with a turf cutter, then remove roots, organic matter, loose soil and debris. Do not bury old lawn beneath the new base because decomposing material will settle and create soft spots.

Excavate enough material to accommodate:

A typical total excavation depth is 80–110 mm, but soft clay, poor fill or vehicle loading may require deeper excavation and professional assessment.

For areas under approximately 30–40 m², manual removal or a hired turf cutter is usually economical. For larger areas, difficult access or deep cuts, hire a 1.7–2.5 t mini excavator or mini loader with an operator.

Stockpile reusable topsoil separately from turf and contaminated fill. Arrange lawful disposal before starting, as excavated soil expands and often occupies 20–30% more volume once loosened.

Step 3: 3️⃣ Prepare and Compact the Subgrade

Shape the exposed soil to the planned fall and remove soft, pumping or saturated sections. Replace weak areas with compactable granular material rather than covering them with additional fines.

Lightly moisture-condition the subgrade and compact it using a plate compactor. The surface should feel firm underfoot without visible movement or deep footprints.

Install geotextile fabric over soft clay, reactive soil or mixed fill to stop the road base migrating into the subgrade. Overlap joints by 150–300 mm and turn the fabric slightly up perimeter edges.

Do not place an impermeable plastic weed barrier beneath the turf. It can trap water and cause odour, movement and base failure.

Step 4: 4️⃣ Install Drainage Where Required

If the subgrade drains poorly, excavate drainage trenches with a minimum practical fall toward an approved outlet. A common residential arrangement uses 100 mm slotted ag pipe surrounded by clean drainage aggregate and wrapped with filter fabric or installed in a filter sock.

Place drains at low points and along areas where water naturally collects. Do not connect ag pipe to sewer systems, and do not discharge water onto neighbouring land.

Surface drains may be needed beside paving, retaining walls or covered entertaining areas. Set pits and channel drains to finished levels before placing the turf base.

💡 Test drainage by lightly hosing the shaped subgrade. Water should move toward the intended outlet without persistent ponding.

Step 5: 5️⃣ Install Perimeter Restraints

Fit solid edging around the lawn to contain the granular base and provide a secure fixing point. Suitable options include:

Set edging to the planned finished level and anchor it firmly. Curved edges must be smooth and well supported so the turf does not pull away over time.

Keep timber clear of permanent saturation and use compatible galvanised or stainless fixings in coastal or corrosive environments.

Step 6: 6️⃣ Place and Compact the Road Base

Spread crushed rock or road base in layers no thicker than approximately 50 mm loose depth. Grade each layer with a rake or screed before compaction.

Lightly mist the material with water—damp, not saturated—and compact it using overlapping passes. Change direction between passes and pay particular attention to edges, corners and around pits.

Build the base to a compacted depth of 60–80 mm for pedestrian areas. Weak subgrades or higher loads may require 100 mm or more, based on site conditions.

Check levels with a laser or string line after each layer. Maintain a finished fall of 1–2% and remove any high spots rather than trying to hide them with the turf.

💡 The compactor should stop leaving visible wheel or plate marks once the base has reached suitable density.

Step 7: 7️⃣ Apply the Finishing Layer

Spread 10–20 mm of crusher dust, decomposed granite or manufacturer-approved turf fines over the compacted road base. Screed it smooth using straight rails or a long aluminium screed.

Lightly water and compact the layer, then fill small depressions and compact again. The finished surface should be firm, smooth and free of stones, ridges and footprints.

Use a straightedge to check for hollows. Variations that look minor on the base often become obvious after low-angle sunlight reaches the finished grass.

Do not use loose brick sand as the primary base. It can shift, retain excessive moisture and develop footprints or ripples.

Step 8: 8️⃣ Acclimatise and Position the Turf

Roll the artificial grass out on a clean, flat surface and allow it to relax for several hours; overnight is preferable in cool weather. Avoid folding the product because creases can be difficult to remove.

Position each roll with the pile leaning in the same direction. Leave enough material around edges for final trimming and avoid dragging the backing across sharp gravel or dirty ground.

If multiple pieces are required, position factory edges close together without overlap. Check colour, pile direction and batch consistency before cutting.

Step 9: 9️⃣ Cut and Join the Seams

Fold back both edges and trim along the backing rows with a sharp hooked blade. Cut from the backing side and avoid slicing through the grass fibres.

Place joining tape centrally beneath the seam, adhesive side up where self-adhesive tape is used. Otherwise, spread outdoor turf adhesive evenly according to the manufacturer’s coverage rate.

Bring both edges together, leaving a consistent gap matching the natural stitch spacing. Do not overlap the backing or force the seam tightly enough to create a raised ridge.

Press the seam firmly, weight it with clean boards or sandbags and allow the adhesive to cure. Keep traffic off the seam for the specified curing period.

💡 Keep grass fibres out of the adhesive using a stiff brush or temporary masking strip. Trapped fibres make seams more visible.

Step 10: 🔟 Trim and Secure the Perimeter

Trim the turf gradually against edging, walls and garden beds. Make several shallow cuts rather than one aggressive cut, particularly around curves.

Pull the turf flat without overstretching it. Secure the perimeter using galvanised nails, screws with washers or turf pins at approximately 150–300 mm centres, following the turf supplier’s instructions.

Position fixings between stitch rows and brush fibres over the heads. Add fixings at corners, curves and changes in direction, but avoid unnecessary internal pinning that may become visible.

Do not fix turf directly into loose soil. Fixings must engage with a stable edge or well-compacted base.

Step 11: 1️⃣1️⃣ Apply Infill and Brush the Pile

Confirm the turf manufacturer’s infill requirements. Spread kiln-dried silica sand or approved infill in several light applications rather than one heavy layer.

A typical application is 5–10 kg/m², although pile height, density and intended use will change the required quantity. Keep the turf dry so the infill falls between fibres instead of clumping on top.

Brush against the pile direction after each application using a stiff broom or mechanical power brush. The infill should settle into the lower pile while the fibre tips remain exposed.

For pets, use a low-odour, antimicrobial or zeolite-based product approved for artificial turf. Avoid unsuitable sharp or dusty sand.

Step 12: 1️⃣2️⃣ Inspect, Clean and Maintain

Remove offcuts, loose fibres and excess infill. Hose lightly to remove dust and verify that water drains without ponding.

Check that:

Brush high-traffic areas every few months and top up infill as required. Remove leaves regularly, rinse pet areas promptly and use only cleaners approved by the turf manufacturer.

Avoid placing hot barbecues, reflective glass, fire pits or vehicle exhausts directly near the turf. Heat can melt or distort synthetic fibres.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

Pro Tips

Recommended Tools

🔧 Recommended Equipment

For machinery purchases above $20,000, consider equipment-finance options through Local Knowledge Finance; for a single backyard installation, short-term hire will usually provide better value.