How to repaint a tiled splashback

🎨 How to Repaint a Tiled Splashback — Budget-Friendly Kitchen & Laundry Refresh

Why repaint a tiled splashback in an Australian home?

Painting a tiled splashback is a cost-effective way to modernise a kitchen or laundry without the mess and expense of removing tiles. The key to a durable result is thorough cleaning, correct abrasion, and using a high-adhesion primer and tile-appropriate topcoat suited to Australian conditions.

What skill level is required to repaint a tiled splashback?

What tools are essential for repainting a tiled splashback?

What materials are needed for a durable tiled splashback repaint?

Safety Requirements

Step-by-Step Guide

Step 1: Assess the splashback and choose the right coating system

1️⃣ Check tile condition

Make sure the tiles are firmly bonded, with no drummy or loose sections. Painting is only suitable where the substrate is sound. If tiles are lifting, cracked badly, or constantly exposed to water ingress, repair those issues first.

2️⃣ Identify the location

A laundry splashback is usually straightforward. A kitchen splashback behind a cooktop needs more care because of grease, steam, and heat. Most painted tile finishes perform best away from direct flame contact.

3️⃣ Choose a compatible paint system

For DIY work in Australia, use a complete renovation/tile system rather than standard wall paint. Good options include Dulux Renovation Range Tiles & Benchtops and White Knight Tile & Laminate Paint. These are designed for slick surfaces and improved adhesion.

💡 Pro tip: Surface prep is always 80% of the job. Paint failure on tiles almost always comes from grease, soap residue, silicone contamination, or inadequate sanding.

Step 2: Remove fittings, mask thoroughly, and protect surrounding areas

1️⃣ Clear the work zone

Remove benchtop items, appliances, and anything fixed close to the splashback where practical.

2️⃣ Remove or loosen hardware

Take off power point covers, switch plates, and trim pieces if safe to do so. This gives a cleaner finish than trying to cut around them.

3️⃣ Mask adjacent surfaces

Use painter's tape and masking paper/plastic to protect:

Mask carefully along grout and tile edges if stopping at a boundary.

Step 3: Deep clean the tiles

1️⃣ Wash off grease and grime

Use sugar soap or a strong degreaser and scrub every tile and grout line thoroughly. Kitchens often have invisible cooking oils that will ruin adhesion if left in place.

2️⃣ Treat mould if present

In laundries or damp corners, use a mould treatment first and allow it to dry fully.

3️⃣ Rinse and dry

After cleaning, wipe down with clean water to remove residue. Let the splashback dry completely before sanding.

💡 Pro tip: Run a clean white cloth over the tiles after cleaning. If you still pick up yellow or grey residue, clean again.

Step 4: Remove silicone and repair defects

1️⃣ Cut out old silicone

Paint does not bond well to silicone. Remove any existing silicone beads along benchtops, corners, or sink joins if they will be in the painted area.

2️⃣ Repair grout and chips

Fill chipped tiles and repair cracked or missing grout with a suitable repair compound. Let repairs cure as directed.

3️⃣ Sand repairs flush

Once dry, smooth repaired spots so the final finish looks even.

Step 5: Degloss the tile surface

1️⃣ Lightly sand all tiles

Use 180-220 grit sandpaper to scuff the glazed surface. You are not trying to remove the tile glaze completely — just create a uniform keyed surface for primer.

2️⃣ Focus on glossy areas

Shiny ceramic and porcelain tiles need consistent abrasion. Don’t skip grout lines, edges, or corners.

3️⃣ Remove all dust

Vacuum and wipe down with a clean damp microfibre cloth, then allow to dry.

💡 Pro tip: If the tile still looks patchy-glossy after sanding, keep going until the sheen is dulled consistently.

Step 6: Prime for adhesion

1️⃣ Apply the correct primer

Use a bonding primer such as Dulux Precision Maximum Strength Adhesion Primer or the primer specified by your chosen tile coating system.

2️⃣ Cut in first

Use a quality synthetic brush around edges, corners, grout details, and obstacles.

3️⃣ Roll the field

Use a 100 mm high-density foam roller for a smooth finish. Apply thin, even coats and avoid overworking the product.

4️⃣ Allow proper dry time

Most primers need around 2-4 hours recoat, but always follow the label. Coverage is typically 12-14m²/L depending on texture and grout depth.

Step 7: Apply the topcoats

1️⃣ Stir thoroughly

Mix the paint well. If using a two-part renovation coating, follow the mix ratio exactly and note the pot life.

2️⃣ Apply the first coat

Brush edges and grout lines, then roll with a foam mini roller in small sections. Keep a wet edge and lay off lightly for a smooth finish.

3️⃣ Let it dry fully

Typical recoat times are 2-4 hours recoat for many systems, though some may be longer in cool or humid weather.

4️⃣ Apply the second coat

Most tiled splashbacks need 2 coats, but dark tiles under a light colour may require 3 coats for full coverage. Coverage is generally 10-12m²/L.

5️⃣ Optional third coat

If the grout lines are still shadowing through or the finish looks uneven, apply one more thin coat rather than one heavy coat.

💡 Pro tip: Several thin coats always outperform one thick coat on tiles. Thick coats are more likely to sag, stay soft, and chip early.

Step 8: Cure, reseal, and reinstall fittings

1️⃣ Allow the paint to harden

Dry-to-touch is not fully cured. Many tile coatings need 5-7 days minimum before hard cleaning, splash exposure, or regular kitchen use.

2️⃣ Apply fresh sealant if needed

Once the coating has cured enough, apply a neat bead of paintable kitchen/bathroom sealant to junctions where silicone was removed, but only where the coating system allows it.

3️⃣ Reinstall covers and accessories

Refit power point covers and clean off masking tape carefully.

4️⃣ Treat the finish gently at first

Avoid abrasive cleaners, scrubbing pads, and harsh chemicals during the full cure period.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

Pro Tips

Recommended Tools